The aim of the targeted campaign ‘Henna-based hair dyes and skin-lightening products from third countries’ was to assess the market situation regarding products that typically have a high rate of non-compliance and a high proportion of unsafe products.

38 samples were analysed, of which 27 were found to be non-compliant:

• Two samples were assessed as harmful to health. The reason was the presence of p-phenylenediamine (PPD) combined with the absence of suitable couplers
• Three samples were not assessed as safe or as products whose suitability for their intended use could not be guaranteed.
  • Three samples also contained PPD (in low concentrations) without a suitable coupler
  • One sample contained 1.95% kojic acid in a body lotion. The concentration thus exceeded the permissible limit of 1% and results in an unacceptable level of exposure to health risks due to its widespread use as a body cream
• An unauthorised composition was identified in 14 samples:
  • In ten samples, the colourant ‘Brilliant Green’ – which is prohibited in hair dyes – was detectable at a concentration that could have been technically avoided
  • In four samples, the unauthorised barium salt ‘barium peroxide’ was used as an oxidising agent
  • In three samples, unauthorised colour precursors were detected (one instance of 2-nitro-p-phenylenediamine and two instances of o-aminophenol)
  • In two samples, the limit value for p-aminophenol was exceeded
  • Three henna products also used henna to colour the skin. Henna is not listed as an authorised colourant in Annex IV to Regulation (EC) No 1223
• Ten samples contained misleading information:
  • In three samples, key ingredients were claimed to be present when they were not
  • Four samples gave the misleading impression that henna causes the hair to change colour, even though it is an oxidative hair dye
  • Two products were marketed as natural cosmetics, although it was proven that ionising radiation had been used
  • One sample was misleadingly advertised as containing natural ingredients
  • One sample contained an unauthorised health-related claim
  • 19 samples had inadequate labelling in German
  • 16 samples had labelling deficiencies in accordance with Article 19(1) of Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009
  • Eight samples lacked the required notification